Onsighting is for Everyone

INSPIRATION

A new grade was born when Adam Ondra clipped the chains of Project Hard. The ascent was earned after seven trips to Flatanger and two years of effort. When he finally weighted the rope, the enthusiastic screamer was speechless, giving rise to the route’s name, Silence 5.15d. As Ondra addressed the media in the aftermath, he was often asked, “What’s next?” His body of work since the send suggests challenges he’s been chasing since his youth – the onsight and flash.

Killian practicing the rose move on the home wall. This small playground introduced our family to the sport, and sparked a lifelong passion.

Adam Ondra reached early recognition by repeating the world’s hardest climbs. He impressed first ascensionists by ticking their climbs in fewer sessions and fewer attempts. For Ondra, the ultimate satisfaction was achieved through onsighting. An onsight only occurs when the climber sends the route or problem without prior beta (knowledge) on the first attempt. The prodigy onsighted 5.14b at 15 years old, and became only the second climber to onsight 5.14c in 2011. More recently, Ondra has been traveling the globe onsighting famous routes including America’s first 5.14c, Just Do It. The Czech climber even topped Supercrackinette 5.15a on his flash attempt (first go, but with beta). The majority of climbers will not pull on the same holds as Ondra, but there is still much to learn from the climbing phenom.

Those lessons took me nearly five years to appreciate.

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BACKGROUND

Our family lives in Columbus, Ohio – a place never mistaken as a rock climbing mecca. It was actually a strange series of events that introduced our family to the sport. With three boys, all under the age of four, we knew they needed a space to grow, burn energy, and have fun (learn more about us on SullySends). To provide that environment, we began to finish our basement. Weeks later, and tired of dry walling, I suggested we build a home climbing wall. Heidi (my wife) was initially surprised since neither of us climbed; however, she agreed it would be a great opportunity for the children. Almost immediately, the kids took to the simple 12 foot x 8 foot wall. Our oldest began asking for additional opportunities to climb, and we began researching gyms in the surrounding neighborhoods. We were ecstatic to find Vertical Adventures and Kinetic Climbing & Fitness – both only a short drive away. Here, our family was introduced to an amazing community that further deepened our passion for climbing.

No caption could make this photograph better. Lochlann topping Pancake Mantle V2/3, Stone Fort, Tennessee.

The boys quickly found their way onto climbing clubs and competitive teams, but developed their largest appetite for outdoor climbing – especially bouldering. Our first crag visit was Coopers Rock State Forest in West Virginia. Since that trip we have become regulars at boulder fields across the east coast and the country. Our youngest, Lochlann, is now five years old and ticked his first V4 over summer. Killian (seven years old) has sent multiple V5s, and topped his first V6 at six years old. Keegan, our eldest at nine, has been climbing the longest and is a beast on the rocks.

Keegan’s first trip to Vertical Adventures was memorable. He was four years old and onsighted a 5.9 (gym grades ¯\_(ツ)_/¯). A few months later he was topping outdoor problems, and has been carrying a crash pad ever since. At the age of eight, he sent his first V10. Perhaps the thing that separates Keegan from most youth climbers is his ability to project challenging problems. Like a veteran, Keegan will place pads, brush holds, and work the moves. Then he meticulously links sections of the boulder until he finds a nice flow in the sequence. We routinely see him work problems with focus and persistence, sometimes lasting hours and multiple sessions. He loves it.

As a parent, these sieges are both inspiring and exhausting. Last year, Keegan set his sights on Frites & Cassoulet V9 at Grayson Highlands State Park. For a tiny climber, it is a true test of technique and power-endurance. Keegan struggled to link the crux moves during his first session. At 9PM we found him dragging a small generator from the van for additional lighting. At 10PM the park closed and he was forced to bail. That night I slept next to him in the tent and was woken several times by flailing arms and legs. Having spent hours spotting him earlier, I quickly recognized he was climbing the problem in his dreams. That morning, our last day of the trip, we returned to the boulder for a second session, but he came up short.

Keegan traversing across heinous slopers. I wonder where this climb could is located? Lip Service V7, Horse Pens 40, Alabama.

We had an opportunity to return to Grayson two months later. During his third session the beta was completely dialed. Promising early attempts eventually gave way to efforts that ended lower and lower. He told me, “The problem takes so much energy. If I don’t send it the first two or three tries, there’s no way it will go.” Then like a true professional, he walked away to eat lunch and read a book. An hour later, he gave it three burns, and removed his shoes – this time to throw the Frisbee with mom. After a rest, he chalked up and pulled off the start holds three times before retreating. This break was devoted to spotting Killian on nearby boulders. Then later, like a scene from Groundhog Day, he velcroed his shoes, chalked his hands, and exhaled before pulling off the ground. Forty-four seconds later he was smiling on top of the boulder. He loves the entire process, start to finish. As a parent, these sieges are both inspiring and exhausting.

This is the nature of climbing at one’s limit. The athlete battles metabolic constraints, resiliency of skin, mental traps, and the probability of linking low percentage moves. Climbing here is insanely rewarding, but also leads to frustration and burn out in many athletes.

Onsighting seems like even more pressure, yet it may be the solution.

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CASE STUDY

This winter we took our first pilgrimage to Hueco Tanks State Park. Our calendar was penned with ten days split between North Mountain and the backcountry. The same calendar showed only five days between our return to Columbus and our departure for Richmond, Virginia. Keegan had earned a spot in the Divisional Championships for bouldering. A good showing in Richmond would qualify him for USA Climbing’s National Championship. The two trips presented a possible conflict of interest – would ten days in Hueco leave him exhausted with wrecked skin? As passionate outdoor climbers, it was well worth the risk. We simply encouraged Keegan to have fun in Hueco, climb smart and when possible, conserve his resources for Divisionals. The results were quite spectacular.

Skinny jeans, a bright t-shirt, and hip turns are Killian’s recipe for success. All the Idiots V3, Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas.

On day one we hiked through the backcountry of East Spur to Stableboy Rock. Our guide showed Keegan the start of Mr. Serious V8, which he topped on his third go. He then moved to the lower start – an overhanging line on thin crimps named Dead Serious V10. After several attempts he had the sit-start wired and was making attempts at the full line. At this point, it was late in the day and he was exhausted. We contemplated taking an hour or two break to recoup, but there is so much rock at Hueco we chose to move on. Unlike our trip to Grayson Highlands, we decided not to fixate on any one problem. Keegan was able to walk away knowing it would not make or break his trip. He smiled and looked for the next project.

As we began to visit new boulders, interesting dynamics emerged. Keegan’s brothers found their own projects in the historic park. Killian was struck by the unique features and thin cracks that compose Sign of the Cross V3. He spent one morning working beta, mustering courage, and committing to the big moves before sending. He would end up ticking several V5s during the trip, but topping Sign of the Cross was Killian’s favorite moment. While in the cave, Keegan joined the festivities and sent as well. A V3 would normally have been a footnote for Keegan, but he was ecstatic with the onsight. He loved the idea of saying that he topped a classic, known by many, on his first go. The rest of the family, inspired by Keegan and Killian, pulled on the problem and opened it as a project for future trips. Here, a single boulder became an amazing and positive experience for an entire family of climbers with broad abilities.

Sometimes mom knows best when it comes to beta. Heidi and Lochlann trying to unlock the sequence of a Grayson Highlands classic

This experience was not an anomaly for the trip – it was a regular occurrence. Keegan approached problems like the Vulgarian V2, Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2, Three-Star Arete V2, Warm-Up Roof V4, Greasy Kid’s Stuff V4, Animal Acts V5, Brutus V5, Ides of March V6, and others, with the same enthusiasm that he approached double-digit projects. His proudest sends were a pair of V7 onsights: Hector in a Blender and Big Iron on His Hip. Every boulder we visited became an opportunity – a tough climb to project, or a fun climb to adopt the challenge of onsighting or flashing.

For Keegan, it saved energy and skin, but I view that as a minor result. I believe the greatest benefits were mental. Working projects below his limit was fun – and every climber needs to have fun. As the week continued, he accumulated numerous sends, smiles, and confidence. So much so, that on our second to last day, he returned and sent Dead Serious V10.

I wonder if Keegan would have returned and topped Dead Serious if he had only projected hard climbs in Hueco. As a parent, these sieges are both inspiring and exhausting. Watching my kids, I know the inner turmoil that goes into sending hard projects. Also, I know the devastation that can be associated with not sending hard projects. To push the limit of the sport like Ondra, or even one’s own ability, these feelings must be experienced. The antidote is balance. The boys had a successful trip because they climbed hard, retreated when necessary, and kept the psych high – with tough sends and fun sends. I believe Keegan’s double digit sends in Hueco were a result of the endorphins earned on easier climbs. And, I am not sure he would have attempted those classics without the added motivation of onsighting. For him, it was a spirited challenge that kept him engaged, and led to immediate and invested success.

Dead Serious V10, Hueco Tanks State Park, Texas. Cred: Blue Lizard

This mindset opened doors for our family and allowed us to enjoy our trip even more. It already has us thinking of future trips.

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OUTLOOK

Our family regularly attends the Triple Crown Bouldering Series at Hound Ears, Stone Fort, and Horse Pens. Most of the competitors, including our boys, turn in scorecards that reflect their hardest ten climbs of the day. The event also offers a competition known as Star Chaser. This one is all about the classics. Athletes competing in Star Chaser receive 1, 2, or 3 points for sending problems with 1, 2, or 3 stars respectively. These ladies and gentleman move swiftly from one classic to another trying to capture as many points as possible. This competition strongly favors climbers that can send quickly with little to no projecting. It is well worth the effort for the Star Chasers – they universally sport the day’s biggest smiles. One friend told me that his cheeks were as sore as his fingers the day following the event. After our trip to Hueco, we are strongly considering chasing the stars at next year’s events.

Our family enjoying the vistas at one of our favorite crags. Big Pinnacle, Grayson Highlands State Park, Virginia.

Onsighting opens the guidebook by taking grades out of the equation. A visit to Rocktown with the sole goal of sending V10s or higher yields only fifteen opportunities (based on problems published in Kearney & Roper). Practicing onsights explodes a trip’s potential and enables a diverse group of athletes to enjoy the same boulders. Onsighting elevates climbs and provides confidence and psych for future projects. Limit climbing should be in everyone’s arsenal, but practicing flashes and onsights is a valuable mental tool. It refines our ability to read and trust beta, and it sharpens our focus when traversing through cruxes. It is a skill that directly or indirectly aids every climb. As our boys grow, we hope they continue to love this sport that challenges them. We believe cultivating attitudes that value onsights is part of that equation.

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Climbers pull on rocks as professionals, competitors, and hobbyists. Regardless of the level of commitment or ability, onsights are a brilliant strategy for keeping the psych high and producing the CRUSH!

If you enjoyed this post please check out our article on The Art of Projecting for Climbing.